Love Letter #144

Lately...

We paddled out here and caught clean tinies, then paddled around the corner to where it was a bit better! This is one of my favorite spots and I enjoyed sharing it with a friend on a mellow day.


Peggylinda provides a heightened view.
She is also visible from the lineup.


First session at the WALL this summah.
Won't be the last.

Goodnight June

The last week of June served up a steady diet of fun summer surf, singlefin loggin and a couple of rippable days. I even caught my first few real waves on the SUP.

One More

One more kiss to sting the knee
and to sweetly remind;
Thru barnacled boulders
on a briny, warm September sea;
Of beat up fins and summer skin
and one more barefoot rock dance

I Stop for Berries

i stop for berries
on rainy days
running
more like
puddle jumping
green and wet
a tangle of thorns
grabs my hat
as I dig down
deep into
the patch
scratch my back
for the ripe
and juicy
summer treats
eat them all
in one bite
chomp chomp
let the juice run
down my throat
enjoy the tart
the sweet
the present
the gift
a reason to stop
any reason
to stop
running
running
running
in the rain
and sunny days
i stop for berries

When I'm Down, and Feeling Blue...

I go out to the shack, so I can be with you.

oh baby...

Summer Break

Somewhere in the northern hemisphere...

Heat Waves

Studies Reveal: Skateboarding is 1,000,000,000 Times More Fun than Running

I happened upon this skateboard on a bit of a whim. A friend was checking out a used longboard at Pioneers and I went along for the adventure. I had been thinking about getting one for a while and figured this was a good chance to check out a few more and ask some questions. I knew I wanted something that would compliment surfing - something for cruising and carving around on. This 33" Globe Cruiser is what Steve recommended.

It just happens to be pink and orange and kind of matches my longboard. It has a stomp pad and a little fish tail. Pretty sure I'm in love.

Summer Song

Paddle, paddle
Summer's chant
Never stop
Don't say you can't
Paddle, popup, on your toes
Yeah, summertime's for times like those

Longboards, fishes
Funboards, too
Party waves
They'll bring a crew
Clad with rad mustachios
Man, summertime's for times like those

Friends and sunshine
Will delight
Evening sessions
Morning light
Stall and run up to the nose
Oh, summertime's for times like those

Flatspells, doldrums
They can sting
So scrape your wax
Then fix that ding
And watch your garden as she grows
'Cause summertime's for times like those

Seasons turn
And though we will
Pray for swell
When waves are nil
In hearts of surfer girls and bros
September bears the sweetest rose

Before the wind
To seed she blows
She'll line up fine
In rows and rows
For seasoned surfers, this they know...
Sweet summertime's for times like those
Yeah, summertime's for times like those.