Sunday started out with big plans to drive north for a true dawnie. I wanted to surf the incoming tide and do a beach cleanup/clearout afterwards starting at 9am. This was an ambitious goal for a rainy Sunday with a questionable surf forecast but I was stoked for surf and the cleanup so I was going for it.
Sure enough, 5:00am rolls around and I am snuggled up warm in my bed listening to the rain outside my window. With very little thinking, I decide it is a perfect day to sleep in, bail on all plans, possibly hit up a yoga class and get a few things done around the house for a change. And that would have been a perfectly fine Sunday.
But see, I have this little addiction where I do not like to go for more than a day when there is any chance of surf - and I took a break on Saturday after feeling thoroughly surfed out from the non-stop swell we had all week. But then I heard people here and there doing the facebook statusing thing about scoring waves and having fun (despite the drear) and next thing I know, I am at the wall in NH.
Conditions looked less than awesome but there were people out. So I started suiting up. Got my suit on half way; peeked over the wall again; considered getting back in the car and driving home; started taking my longboard off the car; decided I was too lazy to fully take the longboard off the car and would just take the fish out; re-strapped the one strap I had undone on the longboard; considered bailing again; and finally said, "Screw it I am going surfing.". So I grabbed lil blue and paddled out.
I had fun and I was warm and I got a few. And I had that same awesome feeling that I get from being in the ocean and doing what I always want to be doing - even when it is not sunny, with light, offshore breezes and perfect waves. Stoked.
Surfing wins...again ♥
Sure enough, 5:00am rolls around and I am snuggled up warm in my bed listening to the rain outside my window. With very little thinking, I decide it is a perfect day to sleep in, bail on all plans, possibly hit up a yoga class and get a few things done around the house for a change. And that would have been a perfectly fine Sunday.
Conditions looked less than awesome but there were people out. So I started suiting up. Got my suit on half way; peeked over the wall again; considered getting back in the car and driving home; started taking my longboard off the car; decided I was too lazy to fully take the longboard off the car and would just take the fish out; re-strapped the one strap I had undone on the longboard; considered bailing again; and finally said, "Screw it I am going surfing.". So I grabbed lil blue and paddled out.
I had fun and I was warm and I got a few. And I had that same awesome feeling that I get from being in the ocean and doing what I always want to be doing - even when it is not sunny, with light, offshore breezes and perfect waves. Stoked.
Surfing wins...again ♥
1 comments:
Ha! It's always worthwhile :)
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