*Refresh

Sometimes you just need one good wave.

Hope Sweet Hope

57 consecutive days. Most days there were waves of some sort but everyday I saw, heard, smelled and touched the ocean.

It was wonderful, beautiful, at times painful, but mostly just wonderful. Making new friends and reuniting with others; volunteering at the local Surfrider Chapter; surfing all kinds of waves in warm water.

I arrived home to spring, to lilacs, to leftover swell, and to new waves from a surprise swell south of the border. The winter wettie is a training tool unto itself and I appreciate the strength it gives us rather than lamenting over lost agility. The long drives to the surf? Well, they feel longer than ever. The isolation of not being surrounded by surfers and close to the ocean? That is the part that hurts the most - but at least this year I was ready for it.

Today was my first day out of the water in 57 days and I am not complaining but I can already feel my gills drying out - that old familiar feeling. So what's next?

I Love You

People so seldom say I love you
And then it's either too late or love goes.
So when I tell you I love you,
It doesn't mean I know you'll never go,
Only that I wish you didn't have to.

~ Rumi

Darkness + Light

Love Grows

I knew being a surfer puts you in a special category and that being a surfer in New England puts you in an even more special subcategory but I had no idea just how special. Words do not fail me too often but this week they have been a little harder to find. Where does the love go when someone leaves this life who was sooo loved by so many? I found out the answer on Saturday. It doesn't go anywhere - rather, it grows.

Remembering Ralph

I remember the first day I met Ralph and his wife Kristen up at Long Sands on that dreamy, sunny afternoon. Long-time best buddy to my equally goofy friend, Lance, Ralph had an awesome sense of humor and epitomized that kid-like, fun, eternally stoked side of surfing that so many seem to lose as time goes by. There was that immediate connection that you just feel with certain people. He was generous... sharing waves with me at his home break – and it was always a treat when we got to surf together. From the day we met, I felt comfortable shooting him a quick message to let him know I would be heading up north to poach a few of his precious waves – always in hopes that he may be getting ready for a session, too.

I still can't believe the news. My heart is broken. Rest in peace, Ralphie.

Ralph: victorious over an enormous closeout 11/10/2010.

180° to Awesome

Sometimes you need to shout out to the universe in order to change the energy surrounding you. Yesterday was not the best day, but today was pretty swell. Started out with a little work, followed by a little surf and then a little visit with the newest member of our family, baby Isabel. The positivity, hope, and inspiration meters are in the black. What a difference a day can make.

Warm, sunny, offshore.

1 + 1 = 3

The Fog

A mysto south swell delivered fun lil waves all last week and I was lucky to score a couple of quality sessions. But despite getting my fill of salt, surf and smiles, something feels off and I have been unable to shake it. Did something happen during that long double session on Thursday? Did I go too deep inside myself at some point? Is my fierce streak of independence finally getting the best of me? Or is it all just due to a lack of sunshine? All I know is that I am quietly clamoring for positivity, hope, and inspiration on so many levels right now. I want to liquidate everything in my life and run away.

Just when you think you might have an answer or two, you realize you know absolutely nothing.

Southern Comfort

On the rocks with a twist of sunshine...
Add a few friends and you are good to go.
Savor for at least 2-3 hours.