There have been waves ALL WEEK LONG. And I am a crazy woman! After the ass-kicking I received this past Sunday (see previous post), I decided to wait for mama ocean to chill a little so I could get a real quality wave-whoring session in.
So Wednesday, I drove an hour north - thinking everything would be groomed out perfectly but arrived to more big, nasty foamy junk. One place looked semi-decent but there were 50 people out. So I did a crazy thing... I got back in my car and drove south. Two-plus hours back down past my homeland and into Rhode Island.
When I got there I found that one of my all-time favorite surf spots was turning out the goods. Clean, organized, chest high, glistening-in-the-sunshine waves and only a few folks out.
I met up with good buddy and amazing surfer/artist Mike Jackson. We surfed and surfed and surfed. A couple of hours later, he rode a sweet one in and snapped some pics of me out there - which I did not know - and that ended up being an amazing surprise! (The picture above this paragraph is one of 'em!)
Thursday I was back at work and scheming up a way to get another session in locally. A quick departure on my trusty bicycle back to my house where my stuff was ready and waiting and I was off. A new spot, just a half an hour from my house is now under my belt. This place doesn't work too often but she was last nite!
Tomorrow, time to give back a little with the Clean Ocean Access Coastal Cleanup. Maybe there will even be a little something left to paddle around in before the event.
So Wednesday, I drove an hour north - thinking everything would be groomed out perfectly but arrived to more big, nasty foamy junk. One place looked semi-decent but there were 50 people out. So I did a crazy thing... I got back in my car and drove south. Two-plus hours back down past my homeland and into Rhode Island.
When I got there I found that one of my all-time favorite surf spots was turning out the goods. Clean, organized, chest high, glistening-in-the-sunshine waves and only a few folks out.
I met up with good buddy and amazing surfer/artist Mike Jackson. We surfed and surfed and surfed. A couple of hours later, he rode a sweet one in and snapped some pics of me out there - which I did not know - and that ended up being an amazing surprise! (The picture above this paragraph is one of 'em!)
Thursday I was back at work and scheming up a way to get another session in locally. A quick departure on my trusty bicycle back to my house where my stuff was ready and waiting and I was off. A new spot, just a half an hour from my house is now under my belt. This place doesn't work too often but she was last nite!
Tomorrow, time to give back a little with the Clean Ocean Access Coastal Cleanup. Maybe there will even be a little something left to paddle around in before the event.
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