Special J: October 2012

Sunday Clarity

After Saturday's foggy waves it was a treat to have crispy, sunny waves all day. It was also day three in the wintersuit and it seems my body is finally starting to acclimate.

At a favorite spot in RI last week I was sad to see plastic bottles and other debris littering the rocky shore for as far as you could see – and in extremely high density. Given the location of this spot, these probably washed in from the ocean (rather than people leaving them there). I easily filled a giant trash bag with plastic bottles, nylon rope, a few bags a bunch of straws, etc. In the lineup I mentioned it and suggested we all take some with us. I know one guy did. That stoked me out.

Into White...

With surfing, timing is almost always a factor. I timed things perfectly today by rolling up just as breakfast was being served! Fog surfing is much better with a belly full of chocolate chip pancakes.