Special J: November 2011

Town + Country

New England style. Three days of consecutive surf, smiles and sunshine. Feeling big love for all of the people that I have met and will meet on this road. It is a good life.

Glorious

Light my fire

All day. Check out this same spot one week ago »

Loggin time

What a sweet way to enjoy a day at the beach and to give thanks throughout the year. Get in touch with your local Surfrider Chapter to see how you can get involved with beach cleanups or create even more impact with other volunteer opportunities.

Love Grows

I knew being a surfer puts you in a special category and that being a surfer in New England puts you in an even more special subcategory but I had no idea just how special. Words do not fail me too often but this week they have been a little harder to find. Where does the love go when someone leaves this life who was sooo loved by so many? I found out the answer on Saturday. It doesn't go anywhere - rather, it grows.

Autumnal Half-framing

More vintage goodness: salty adventures along the New England coast.

Anything born in spring dies in fall,
but love is not seasonal.

~ Rumi

Check out. Drop in. Let go.

Tuck into the ride
and leave this town.
Thick black rubber
to dull the numb;
limb by limb,
foot by foot,
finger by finger.
Hood overhead;
until you're
just another
black smudge.
Undercover lover.
Drenched in salt,
saturated in secrets,
feathers and fins.
Stay,
til dark beats down the day,
til every rib is sore,
til the rain begins
to smell like snow;
the last golden leaves
holding on tight.
Heart full.
Head empty.
On little wings,
souls floating
somewhere
in the in between.

Remembering Ralph

I remember the first day I met Ralph and his wife Kristen up at Long Sands on that dreamy, sunny afternoon. Long-time best buddy to my equally goofy friend, Lance, Ralph had an awesome sense of humor and epitomized that kid-like, fun, eternally stoked side of surfing that so many seem to lose as time goes by. There was that immediate connection that you just feel with certain people. He was generous... sharing waves with me at his home break – and it was always a treat when we got to surf together. From the day we met, I felt comfortable shooting him a quick message to let him know I would be heading up north to poach a few of his precious waves – always in hopes that he may be getting ready for a session, too.

I still can't believe the news. My heart is broken. Rest in peace, Ralphie.

Ralph: victorious over an enormous closeout 11/10/2010.