Saturday, Small, Sweet, Summer, Swell.

I think this might count as a tiny blessing from the surf gods. One minute I am in the wrapper studying this on the computer, next minute - well, you know the rest...

early morning surf check from bedhi tide mayhem
party wave central. i love watching surf lessons.

Traditional Hawaiian Prayer for Surf

Because we sure could use some right about now...

na a 'ohe nalu, a laila aku i kai, penei e hea ai
(If there is no surf, invoke seaward in the following manner):

"Ku mai! Ku mai! Ka nalu nui mai Kahiki mai,
(arise, arise you great surfs from Kahiki)

Alo po i pu! Ku mai ka pohuehue,
(the powerful curling waves. Arise with the pohuehue)

Hu! Kai ko'o Loa.
(Well up long raging surf.)


Summer Break

Somewhere in the northern hemisphere...
summer break

Deliberate Acts of Goodness

Surf contests are great for showing off your radical skills and getting noticed but I am more impressed by waveriders like Ted from Wakefield, RI who make it a habit of taking care of their favorite surf spots. I met Ted early Saturday morning during a surf check. He was already two bagfuls into his cleanup. We briefly chatted about the spot and how it is on privately-owned land but open to the public and how lucky we are to be able to drive there, park and surf. I didn't see him for the rest of the day but I hope he scored some love from the surf gods. Thank-you, Ted!

Ted from Wakefield RI

Heat Waves

sea ya later
Saturday sunset sesh

Creative Sessioning

Surfing has everything to do with luck and timing - especially when you have an hour-plus drive. Some days my timing is spot on and other days frustratingly off. But last week, everything fell into place.

First, there was the campout sessions that I had at PJ on Tuesday/Weds. I scored a last minute site at Fisherman's Memorial Campground during high-season. There were some clean waist-shoulder high sets coming through and I got a few fun ones before hunkering down for a perfect campfire. Though I wished for a compadre, there is something to be said for quality time spent with one's self.

The next morning's sessions consisted mainly of townbeach closeouts but I had fun surfing with my long lost surf pal and board shaper, Ricky Hart, who is also working as a beloved surf instructor this summer at Warm Winds. After that, I scored small, shallow, rocky point break at the Lighthouse.

Before hitting the road I did a long cleanup from the top of the lot all the way down to the fence - easily filling two bags with trash, including hundreds of cigarette butts. It hurts my heart every time I see all the new trash that is deposited but I am hopeful that the cleanups help bring awareness from the onlookers. I also meet a lot of people who share the same love and concern for these special places.

Thursday evening's plan was to head north and surf into the sunset/moonrise; crash at one of my bestie surfer bud's in Portsmouth; then wake up early for a lil dawn patrol on the incoming tide.

twinmoonIt was only a little a dream... that kinda came true.

emptiesFriday morning delivered more than expected - sparkly, clean and easily chest plus on the sets. Early morn was the best before the wind came on it and the tide and crowd filled in.

Now we wait to see if TS Bret might deliver something. In the meantime, the Massachusetts Bottle Bill hearing is ON for tomorrow morning. Let's hope that all of the hard work that people have been doing pays off with some well-deserved updating. More redeemable bottles will equal less plastic in our oceans.

I know that more waves will come - so today I'm praying for change.

15 Minutes of Clean

In the last few years I have been devoting time each week to cleaning my favorite surf spots before I leave. Whether it takes form in a stroll down the beach looking for debris or spending the time in the parking lots filling a bag with cigarette butts - it is a combined expression of gratitude, love and ownership and it makes me (and all who do this) a better surfer.

It is amazing what you will find in just 15 minutes.

15 minutes on the beach
someone forgot something
tools of the tradeTools of the trade. These are in the car at all times: gloves, bag & grabber tool (a recent addition + prized posession!)