Surfing has everything to do with luck and timing - especially when you have an hour-plus drive. Some days my timing is spot on and other days frustratingly off. But last week, everything fell into place.
First, there was the campout sessions that I had at PJ on Tuesday/Weds. I scored a last minute site at Fisherman's Memorial Campground during high-season. There were some clean waist-shoulder high sets coming through and I got a few fun ones before hunkering down for a perfect campfire. Though I wished for a compadre, there is something to be said for quality time spent with one's self.
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The next morning's sessions consisted mainly of townbeach closeouts but I had fun surfing with my long lost surf pal and board shaper, Ricky Hart, who is also working as a beloved surf instructor this summer at Warm Winds. After that, I scored small, shallow, rocky point break at the Lighthouse.
Before hitting the road I did a long cleanup from the top of the lot all the way down to the fence - easily filling two bags with trash, including hundreds of cigarette butts. It hurts my heart every time I see all the new trash that is deposited but I am hopeful that the cleanups help bring awareness from the onlookers. I also meet a lot of people who share the same love and concern for these special places.
Thursday evening's plan was to head north and surf into the sunset/moonrise; crash at one of my bestie surfer bud's in Portsmouth; then wake up early for a lil dawn patrol on the incoming tide.
I know that more waves will come - so today I'm praying for change.
First, there was the campout sessions that I had at PJ on Tuesday/Weds. I scored a last minute site at Fisherman's Memorial Campground during high-season. There were some clean waist-shoulder high sets coming through and I got a few fun ones before hunkering down for a perfect campfire. Though I wished for a compadre, there is something to be said for quality time spent with one's self.

The next morning's sessions consisted mainly of townbeach closeouts but I had fun surfing with my long lost surf pal and board shaper, Ricky Hart, who is also working as a beloved surf instructor this summer at Warm Winds. After that, I scored small, shallow, rocky point break at the Lighthouse.
Before hitting the road I did a long cleanup from the top of the lot all the way down to the fence - easily filling two bags with trash, including hundreds of cigarette butts. It hurts my heart every time I see all the new trash that is deposited but I am hopeful that the cleanups help bring awareness from the onlookers. I also meet a lot of people who share the same love and concern for these special places.
Thursday evening's plan was to head north and surf into the sunset/moonrise; crash at one of my bestie surfer bud's in Portsmouth; then wake up early for a lil dawn patrol on the incoming tide.
It was only a little a dream... that kinda came true.
Friday morning delivered more than expected - sparkly, clean and easily chest plus on the sets. Early morn was the best before the wind came on it and the tide and crowd filled in.
I know that more waves will come - so today I'm praying for change.
1 comments:
That little fish looks soo fun!
http://tangtrio.blogspot.com/
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