Surfing has everything to do with luck and timing - especially when you have an hour-plus drive. Some days my timing is spot on and other days frustratingly off. But last week, everything fell into place.
First, there was the campout sessions that I had at PJ on Tuesday/Weds. I scored a last minute site at Fisherman's Memorial Campground during high-season. There were some clean waist-shoulder high sets coming through and I got a few fun ones before hunkering down for a perfect campfire. Though I wished for a compadre, there is something to be said for quality time spent with one's self.
The next morning's sessions consisted mainly of townbeach closeouts but I had fun surfing with my long lost surf pal and board shaper, Ricky Hart, who is also working as a beloved surf instructor this summer at Warm Winds. After that, I scored small, shallow, rocky point break at the Lighthouse.
Before hitting the road I did a long cleanup from the top of the lot all the way down to the fence - easily filling two bags with trash, including hundreds of cigarette butts. It hurts my heart every time I see all the new trash that is deposited but I am hopeful that the cleanups help bring awareness from the onlookers. I also meet a lot of people who share the same love and concern for these special places.
Thursday evening's plan was to head north and surf into the sunset/moonrise; crash at one of my bestie surfer bud's in Portsmouth; then wake up early for a lil dawn patrol on the incoming tide.
It was only a little a dream... that kinda came true.
Friday morning delivered more than expected - sparkly, clean and easily chest plus on the sets. Early morn was the best before the wind came on it and the tide and crowd filled in.
Now we wait to see if TS Bret might deliver something. In the meantime, the
Massachusetts Bottle Bill hearing is ON for tomorrow morning. Let's hope that all of the hard work that people have been doing pays off with some well-deserved updating. More redeemable bottles will equal less plastic in our oceans.
I know that more waves will come - so today I'm praying for change.
