Redemption Session

After a couple of mildly disappointing sessions, I was pleased to find sunshine, friends and stoke at the end of the week. I so needed this.


Disc Debacle

Biofilm Chips
Concerned beach lovers have been scouring a 40 mile stretch of coast after an overflow at the Hooksett, NH Waste Water Treatment Facility released an estimated 4 to 8 million plastic discs into the Merrimack River on March 6th, 2011.

The discs are used in the water waste system to give helpful bacteria a place to sit and help break down sewage. Unfortunately, there was no alarm system in place to alert anyone about the overflow and it was not until 4 days later that the situation was discovered. Had it not been for the discs, the overflow may not have been discovered at all.


NH Surfrider Foundation, Blue Ocean Society and local surf shops were the first to report the findings and organize clean ups. Crews have been collecting them by the hundreds. Last Saturday's emergency cleanup in Hampton, NH was no exception.

Andrew digging deep

At first glance it seemed challenging to find a disc but then we would happen upon a mass of seaweed in between the rocks and find over 10 in a matter of seconds. We searched until the supermoon, high tide had us up against the wall. No doubt, as we scrambled to find a few more, the sea was getting ready to deposit a fresh batch.

in the seaweed
Sure enough, after this morning's surf, I found 15 within a 15 minute timeframe. As I sifted through the seaweed I couldn't help but notice the discs co-mingling with so many other little plastic friends. Still, there is a satisfying feeling with each one found. Something tells me we will be seeing many more in days to come.

Additional information can be found here:
Kruger wins IFAS contract in Hooksett, New Hampshire »
New Hampshire Department of Environmental Services »
NH Surfrider Foundation »
Blue Ocean Society »
friday sparkles
a sunshine sparkle
the wind blew gently that day
offshore with good waves


winter still

Winter sessions melt away,
Similar to summer days.
Icy dives to ice cream cones,
Line ups feeling less alone.

Already I can hear the grumble.
Crowds and kooks, the old guys mumble.
Logs and fish, we will have fun.
You know you cannot stop at one.

But when it's hot and flat and haze,
I'll pitch my dreams back to the grey.
Skies of white and frozen bones,
Rubber thick and muted tones.

Spring, summer, fall we all delight
But winter surfers' hearts alight.
For empty points and lonely waves,
It's winter's promises we crave.

into white

Love. Again.

...let me count the ways
thaw and ride

Ummm. Yeah. SO... since this is my little digital kingdom and I pretty much make the rules, I will continue to digitally smooch whatever I feel like smooching. When I feel the need to declare my love for something over and over and over in so many different or similar ways, I will unabashedly do just that. Because sometimes, at the end of the day, the love just needs a place to go.

Give Thanks for...

happysurf buddies
longlong, empty beaches
heatwarm cars
leftover loveleftover lovelies

A Wintery Beach Cleanup

We did our best to clean the beach despite there being a bunch of newly fallen snow in the rocky spots where we usually find most of the trash. Still, an awesome crew of people braved the elements to help clean.
beach cleanup crew hunkering down
Reusable bags donated from the Huntington Beach Chapter
my favorite surf shop!
When you hear about the Gyres and the islands of plastic in the ocean, and see images of innocent creatures suffering, it can be super depressing. I found hope the other day when I saw this interview with United Nations Environmental Ambassador and Pro surfer, Mary Osborne.

Mary explains that even though we can not just go out to the middle of the sea and clean up the massive plastic mess, the ocean has a way of eventually bringing it back to shore. So the beach cleanups really do make a difference! Hopefully they will also bring awareness to our throw away culture and catalyze some much needed change.

Special thanks to Surfrider NH, Cinnamon Rainbows, Me & Ollie's for delicious hot coffee and pastries, and Las Olas Taqueria for discounts on their yummy tacos!

After the Stoke...

I should have known that coming down after 5 weeks of surf was going to hurt. I just didn't realize how bad it would be. Every inch of my body wants to run back to Puerto Rico. The waves are still there. The people are still there. My heart is still there.

This sugary sweet little pop gem will 4-eva remind me of my first time in PR because you simply could not get away from it. It was playing everywhere and was always in my head. When I got home I had to buy it off iTunes.

Surf Report: Puerto Rico 2011

marias sunset

Ahhh... where to begin?

Northwestern Puerto Rico is a place where you can find good surf everyday from October thru April, and I would venture to bet that you can find at least a longboardable wave somewhere, on any given day, year-round.

During my stay, I was fortunate enough to surf Rincón's local breaks and a bunch of the spots further north in Aguadilla and Isabela. In general, it is usually a foot or two (or more) bigger up north so these places were great to know about when it was small in Rincón. The key is to get on them early, before the wind.

All Fixed

Back in action. Thanks Tony!

At each new place I would read up on the break as much as possible, watch for a while and ask someone if there were any major hazards and best way in and out. People were friendly and helpful.

Of course, it was on a small day at Maria's that I broke the fin box on my longboard. Luckily, Bobby from Mar Azul Surf Shop hooked me up with a new fin box and Tony from Rapid Ding Repair. Tony had my board fixed in 3 days as promised and did a beautiful job.

Depending on what spots you are at, the crowds can be slightly unnerving, especially upon first arrival. There are so many amazing surfers here; everything is faster; waves are more powerful and people take off deep.

All that said, it's actually surprisingly easy to get a less crowded session in if you go super early because locals think it is cold and other people just sleep late.

empty morning surf

Speaking of early morning sessions, next time I will bring a micro wetsuit or a seriously awesome vest or rashguard because the locals are right. Before the sun rises up over the hills, it can actually be QUITE chilly, especially if it is breezy.

Two days before leaving, I was blessed to see the "big wave spot", Trés Palmas, going off. Though everyone was saying that it was not nearly as big as it can get (this spot can hold 40 foot faces), it was still a treat. And it still looked pretty big to me. Trés had not truly been "on" since Dec 25th. I witnessed many people emerging from the beast with bloody feet and missing fins. A calmer day spent snorkeling will reveal that what lies beneath the ocean's surface here is as gnarly as it is beautiful.

happy lil family
There were so many cool people that I met while I was there. Some folks just learning to surf and others with skills that I only dream of attaining one day. The fact that I allowed myself to bond with people (and their pets!) made it all the more difficult to say goodbye. I suppose that is part of being a silly human.

Surfrider, Rincón

I can see myself coming back for a couple of months next year if life allows. In the meantime, the homecoming swell we got on Saturday makes being home a little bit sweeter. Not gonna lie though - that first duckdive HURT.

just do it