I am starting to think that the ability to enjoy crap surf is a blessing and a talent.
It's not pretty. But I needed this today.
One More
One more kiss to sting the knee
and to sweetly remind;
Thru barnacled boulders
on a briny, warm September sea;
Of beat up fins and summer skin
and one more barefoot rock dance
and to sweetly remind;
Thru barnacled boulders
on a briny, warm September sea;
Of beat up fins and summer skin
and one more barefoot rock dance
Love Letter #49
As we bid a fond farewell to summer, we quietly and collectively celebrate the beginning of something wonderful...
Dear Seabirds and Other Precious Creatures,
Please do not eat the plastic, or any of the millions of cigarette butts tangled in the seaweed, or any of the stuff that visitors have left strewn about your little home.
I love summer... and it is always bittersweet to see it end. But I will be happy for our beaches to get a break from the seemingly relentless abuse. This is not what many people envision when they think about the romantic surf lifestyle. Well, the truth is: it is not always beautiful - but we humans have the choice to make it so.
Every single choice we make is another chance.
Honey to the Bees
It's the favorite time of year for most New England surfers and summer's numbered days + warm water sessions, naturally attract the swarms.
This past swell, I enjoyed surfing a popular but less familiar spot (for me) than usual. I got a kick out of the mayhem; scratching out a few gems among the semi-crowded, perfect, firing swell that seemed to turn on the moment I stepped into the salty brew.
Surf, love, share, laugh, and always, always, always... enjoy the buzz.
Surf + Live + Evolve
Big, bold swell from Katia; spontaneous beach cleaning; a sustainability-centered surf festival; and gorgeous little longboard waves to rest, revive, ride and reflect upon.
Katia forerunners.
Irresistable post-surf debris removal. I was joined by local legend and smooth glider, Captain Carl. We filled a huge bag with plastic bottles and cans within a 15 minute timeframe. Did it again the next day.
Surf's up.
Way up.
A couple hundred miles north for Grain Surfboards Re-Evolution board demo. So many sustainable builders and boards, live music, two fantastic films and more. Grain knows how to throw an event! It was inspiring.
Comparing & contrasting.
Bonfire. Grain-style.
Sunday morning services. No place I would rather be.
Irene 2011
Despite the usual hurricane lunacy, I went with the flow and had a bunch of good sessions. I even attended a black tie wedding in the midst of it all.
Forerunner Friday: Had such a fun warm, sunny longboard day. As magical as it gets. By the end of the day waves were good enough for the fish. I like being there to welcome the swell.
Saturday morning I paddled out into the unknown. (No pictures exist of these sessions due to fog.) Instead, please enjoy this lovely sunset/campfire image from the previous evening.
A note to friends and family: In the future, please refrain from planning weddings during hurricane season. Thanks + hugs! ~ j :)
I waited for the storm to pass on Sunday. A tree fell on my neighbors car and I nervously watched the trees bend and sway in the wind. Luckily that was the extent of the damage chez J. Some others were not so lucky.
Monday I was feeling frivolous and totally based my decision on water temps. That one more bikini-clad session on lil blue was so worth it. Later, I heard it was "freezing" up north... Got up there Tuesday morning and people were wearing gloves and booties already. Noooo! Not yet.
Stayed wicked late and cut my feet excessively doing so many rock dances. Ate all my snacks and shared with friends in the sun. Fun surf but the water quality was pretty bad - so bad that I can still feel it like battery acid on my tongue. I may have done a little damage.
Don't always know where I'm going, but it always works out.
Farewell to August and Irene. Give thanks.
