The Present

The past few years I have done a 12-month retrospective but today I wish not to dwell so in the past - nor to look too far ahead. I wish all a happy, healthy 2013. May you live each day in the present and truly savor every session, every friend, every day.

December Flow

Damn it was good. So many sessions, such good quality. If every month could be this good I believe I would never want for more. Fave moments from December 2012...

Moments of Silence

Hoodless + Warm

Who knows if there will be another day like this before winter really gets here. Thoroughly savored the wind and water in my hair today.

Glassy Wobbles

glassy knee to waist
small windswell keeps us salty
slide your way to fine

Namaste

This one day...
Body, mind and spirit aligned.
There was a moonset and a sunrise.
Oh yes... and there were waves to ride.

Thanksgiving Swells

Can't Steal Stoke

The few photos from a quick 10 days in PR...

Photo via Joe McDaniel

Snack break! This day was amazing. Surfers Beach. Chest to overhead and wind stayed offshore all day.

Photo via Joe McDaniel

Plantain latkes (Arañitas)! Better than tostones!

Paradise found / paradise lost

Surfer Girls ♥ Photo by Brent

Hurricane Sandy

Somewhere in MA. Sunday, Oct 28, 2012.

Sunday Clarity

After Saturday's foggy waves it was a treat to have crispy, sunny waves all day. It was also day three in the wintersuit and it seems my body is finally starting to acclimate.

Taking Notice

At a favorite spot in RI last week I was sad to see plastic bottles and other debris littering the rocky shore for as far as you could see – and in extremely high density. Given the location of this spot, these probably washed in from the ocean (rather than people leaving them there). I easily filled a giant trash bag with plastic bottles, nylon rope, a few bags a bunch of straws, etc. In the lineup I mentioned it and suggested we all take some with us. I know one guy did. That stoked me out.

Into White...

With surfing, timing is almost always a factor. I timed things perfectly today by rolling up just as breakfast was being served! Fog surfing is much better with a belly full of chocolate chip pancakes.

Raphael Sessions

Got a couple. Thanks Raph!