I love summer... and it is always bittersweet to see it end. But I will be happy for our beaches to get a break from the seemingly relentless abuse. This is not what many people envision when they think about the romantic surf lifestyle. Well, the truth is: it is not always beautiful - but we humans have the choice to make it so.
Every single choice we make is another chance.
It's the favorite time of year for most New England surfers and summer's numbered days + warm water sessions, naturally attract the swarms.
This past swell, I enjoyed surfing a popular but less familiar spot (for me) than usual. I got a kick out of the mayhem; scratching out a few gems among the semi-crowded, perfect, firing swell that seemed to turn on the moment I stepped into the salty brew.
Surf, love, share, laugh, and always, always, always... enjoy the buzz.
I waited for the storm to pass on Sunday. A tree fell on my neighbors car and I nervously watched the trees bend and sway in the wind. Luckily that was the extent of the damage chez J. Some others were not so lucky.
Monday I was feeling frivolous and totally based my decision on water temps. That one more bikini-clad session on lil blue was so worth it. Later, I heard it was "freezing" up north... Got up there Tuesday morning and people were wearing gloves and booties already. Noooo! Not yet.By Tuesday, Irene had swallowed up Tropical Storm Jose and I was lucky to score tasty leftovers up north with glassy beachbreak gems and pondering points. Paddled out at a place I do not usually go. Progress comes in all forms.
Farewell to August and Irene. Give thanks.